The grandson of the founder of the Dior Parfums perfume line, Serge Heftler, and the nephew of director Louis Mal, Frederic Mal realized his long-held dream: to create the perfect perfume. The new Editions de Parfums collection, combining 18 exclusive fragrances from the best "noses" of the world, reflects the elegant French aesthetics of Monsieur Malle. The creator of the perfume house spoke about the concept of his project.
Your boutique is not like the others, it is completely "non-profit" ...
12 years ago, when I created my company, the tendency of minimalism reigned in the world. However, when you sell perfumes, you want the atmosphere to be cozy. When shopping, customers often become talkative and talk about their lives. Thus, you can understand what they are specifically looking for. It is easier to relax if the boutique resembles a house or apartment than the airport. So I came to the concept, which in America is called the "resident boutique".
You are the author of the Editions de Parfums collection. Tell us about the idea of the project.
The project was created after long observation. On the one hand, I had the most talented perfumers today who complained about exchanging their talent for creating commercial fragrances intended for the mass market. As a rule, they do not have a clear "form". On the other hand, I have a wide circle of acquaintances who are the cream of society, for example, in the fashion industry or show business. They complained that their spirits were old-fashioned or often recognizable. I decided to combine these two groups, and I got an unusual project, within the framework of which the most unusual aromas of high quality were created. The team of masters that I gathered asked me to “guide” them, and I became a consultant and “coach” for them. Translated from French, "editions de parfume" means "publishing house of spirits." If you draw a parallel with the publishing house, it turns out that my job is to "release" the work of my perfumers. Sometimes a publisher can change the name of a book, sometimes ask a young author to delete a specific chapter, and sometimes even “kill” a character. My concept is to combine the best scents with their customers.
What perfumes from this collection, in your opinion, reflect the taste of the Dubai buyer?
Of course, Portrait of a Lady. The work of Dominic Ropion, this fragrance is truly a masterpiece. According to our estimates, each bottle contains about 400 roses, which are hand-picked in Turkey and distilled at a local factory, and then again in France using high technology. These perfumes are like a Rolls-Royce among oriental fragrances. I think locals will like Carnal Flower. They smell of "nature" and are the most natural of the entire collection. Tuberose, the main accent of the fragrance, blooms twice a year.
We use Indian tuberose blooming in May. It is harvested in the afternoon, when the flower is opened, and processed immediately to get the maximum flower extract. Also popular in the Middle East should be Musc Ravageur. These are spirits with a strong oriental motif. Of men's fragrances, I think Vetiver Extraordinaire and French Lover will fall in love.
What aromas will suit a guest from Russia and the CIS countries?
You will definitely like Dries Van Notten, however, they are not included in this collection. Soft and unobtrusive, this fragrance is very “comfortable” to wear. Also, Iris Poudre. As you guessed, in these spirits a lot of iris. They were created by Pierre Bourdon, who is a very modern perfumer. Pierre's creation reflects classic flavors such as Chanel No. 5 and Arpege, with only modern ingredients and lots of toffee. Soft Don te Bras will also appeal to you.
That is, you instinctively understand what kind of aroma this or that person needs?
Of course, especially since I believe that everyone unconsciously seeks to seduce other people. Each fragrance has its own character, like a person. For example, something “dark”, warm of aromas, will suit a hot southerner, and “pure”, a cologne- “nude”, which is practically not felt, will suit a blond Swede. We create couples. My aromas are all good, with excellent quality and content, but they only really begin to show themselves in "their" soul mate.
What advice can you give to those who want to buy perfume, but find it difficult to choose?
I need to answer a few questions for myself: “What am I doing?”, “On what occasion will I wear this fragrance?”, “At night, or after playing sports?”. Confidently refuse if perfumes do not suit you. Most importantly, always be yourself. I would really like to look like Sean Connery, or to smell like James Bond, but then it will be false. The fragrance must certainly be "mine."
What is "perfume" for you, Frederick?
It is like a shadow of my soul. When I create a masculine fragrance, my echo is heard. For example, Vetiver Extraordinaire reflects my character. I often wear Geranium Pour Monsieur: I think they are very sexy, and at night I like "French Lover".
What can you give as parting words to beginning perfumers?
The perfumer is a creative nature, free, very accurate and sensitive. But this is not enough to create perfume. You must have knowledge of technology and inhuman patience, because perfumery is a very painstaking work requiring constant modifications. Sometimes it takes 18 months to create a new fragrance. One must be obsessed with the profession.
Just like in the book "Perfumer" by Patrick Suskind ...
Nearly. By the way, we have the same birthday with him!
The exclusive Frederic Malle Les Editions de Parfums collection is on display at the Harvey Nichols shopping gallery.
